The Winter Coat

Seasonally Appropriate

Somehow, it's November, and after a longer-than-average autumn here in NYC, temperatures have dipped off the plateau and are heading straight toward winter. It invariably comes bringing the winter clothes out from under the bed or deep within the closet.

I, for one, enjoy this ritual because I have a couple of winter pieces that I genuinely love and enjoy wearing, but it has to be very cold. Shawl sweaters, crew-neck sweaters, other sweaters, scarves, etc., are all enjoyable, but one item has always been my favorite: the long winter coat.

It's a rare occasion to wear it, as its thickness is pretty heavy, but it feels like a feather compared to the heaviest jacket I've ever seen. A quick story before I continue—I was touring a factory in Northern England—I can't be more specific than this, or I'll give it away as I'll be publishing a video about them very soon—and I was going through their archives. They had a jacket worn in World War II. The gentleman I was with told me to pick it up. It looked like a normal jacket, but when I picked it up, I kid you not, it was the heaviest piece of clothing I have ever felt. I bet it weighed twenty pounds, no exaggeration. Wearing that over your uniform and carrying much equipment is genuinely unique. I didn't even realize clothes could be this heavy. Wild. I digress.

I don't think you need a wide range of winter coats in your repertoire. Longtime readers will know that I prefer one of an item that you love over a handful that you kind of like, so start there.

Call me old fashioned, but I like dressing for the season, with a heavy emphasis on making sure that you aren't too early dressing on the season. Once the temperatures dropped below sixty degrees a couple of weeks ago, the number of people walking around with scarves, beanies, and peacoats was astonishingly high. The first hint of cold air should be a sign that you should take winter gear out of storage, not put them on. I digress yet again.

The oversized winter coat is the perfect layering piece. I dare mention that word—layering—because it seems very common around the Internet these days, but adding an oversized winter coat to the repertoire brings another dimension to your layering options. Now, going on my second decade in New York, I've accrued several winter coats. Typically, I've opted for a peacoat. My Billy Reid one tasted me a decade ago, but I think there is something so chic about a nice heavy tweed coat that pairs well with winter. I prefer one with a pocket on the lapel, where you can stick your gloves in when you go inside.

There are several places where you can pick one up. Admittedly, they aren't cheap, but I think they are worth the investment. There are many other Substacks—that I'm sure you follow—that have great recommendations on which ones to buy, but I'll include two here that I think are really exceptional.

Here's one from Private White V.C. and their latest collaboration with Permanent Style. It’s no accident that they’ve been around for over 120 years.

Here's one from Wythe. This one is sold out, but they have a few other options if you like this style.

No matter which you choose, I think a nice overcoat will serve you well. While this jacket will go out of season in a few months, it will never go out of style.