The Details

All buttons are not meant to be buttoned.

I've always loved the details—getting in the weeds and making subtle design choices that most might not even notice. In fact, most probably won’t notice. We often focus on the big picture, but let's take a moment to explore the small details that can truly elevate a look. These are the elements I'm currently experimenting with.

Shirt Pocket

Whether you're buying a suit off the rack or getting a custom shirt made, the option to have a pocket on the front of the shirt has always been a moment of deliberation for me. Going sans-pocket is considered more formal—however, I could argue that even the notion of a dress shirt, in general, is formal these days, pocket or not—however, I always tend to opt for the pocket. I like having it there because, in the summer, it's nice to have an extra place for storage when I’m not wearing a jacket. I have a strict—no wallet or phone in the pants pocket unless absolutely and utterly necessary (that's a story for another day), and having a pocket here gives me that option.

Sleeves Buttons Undone

One of the staples of the Thom Browne Uniform is leaving your sleeve buttons undone, and I’ve translated that to non-Thom Browne outfits. I'm talking about the button by the wrist, and I wouldn't do this if your shirt doesn't have a small-sized button a couple of inches higher to leave the button to maintain the form of the sleeve. However, I sometimes opt out of the button on a dress shirt just to switch it up a bit. I firmly believe that all buttons are not meant to be buttoned.

Collar Roll Button

Speaking of buttons, if I wear a classic Oxford Cloth Button Down, I never button the two buttons at the base of the collar. To the same point as above, I wouldn't do this if unbuttoning them loses the shape of the collar. Of course, the shape will change slightly if the buttons aren't fastened, but that's fun. If you're lucky, you'll get a good collar roll—long-time readers here know my affinity for this.

Back of Tie

When the back of the tie is longer than the front, it can stir up some debate. I first saw this style from Sid Mashburn and Drake's, and it's been a playful addition to my wardrobe ever since. When an outfit looks too perfect, it can come off as a bit stuffy and try-hard. Tying the tie in a way that's not so perfect (ahem, four-in-hand) adds a touch of fun to the proceedings. Like the unbuttoned sleeves and collar, this detail is all about not taking yourself too seriously, and that's a refreshing approach to suiting.