Last week, I set out to buy new ties. Having returned to wearing suits five days a week at the office, I felt the purchase was well justified. I had my heart set on a small maker in Naples, having two of their ties in my closet, one of them being my all-time favorite tie. To my surprise, their website—to the best I can tell because it was all in Italian—didn't sell ties. This seemed counterintuitive since, while they offered shirts, pants, and outerwear, ties were their claim to fame (or so I thought), yet they were nowhere to be found on their website—a digital paradox.

This experience reinforced a working theory of mine: when a website is "bad" in the conventional sense, the product or service itself is often exceptional. The Neapolitan tie maker was a perfect example. I first noticed this pattern with old-school restaurants. Their websites sometimes ending in .net or .biz, featuring plain text without beautiful imagery, clever copy, daily menu updates, reservation systems, devoid of design philosophy, no SEO optimization—just basic information. So "bad", it's good.

This phenomenon was happening in other areas, too. I’m always scouring the internet for menswear brands and makers that are new to me, and I started running into the "problem" of lacking an internet presence. While some brands are built for e-commerce, others clearly aren't. Initially, I found myself refreshing my browser in frustration, wondering why these websites were lacking. But eventually, I found it charming. Having to do a little work to get something was quite refreshing. In the age of instant gratification, it's nice to be forced to work a bit—whether for a pair of ties or otherwise.

These outdated websites represent the last bastion of the old guard. I'm not talking about intentionally poor design to appear cool—I mean artisans who've been around so long they see no need for a sophisticated online presence. Like that Italian grandmother who makes the best pasta you've ever tasted but doesn't own a smartphone—their expertise lies in the craft, not the promotion. They're too busy perfecting their craft.

Having built a career in marketing, I understand the importance of a good website. Yet sometimes, marketing has become the primary focus, to the detriment of the product. What can we capture for Instagram? How much should we spend on branding? The incumbents, those restaurants and ateliers who existed before HTML, had one primary concern—creating the best possible product. The irony isn't lost on me—I've spent years helping brands perfect their digital presence, yet here I am, hunting for companies whose websites look like digital time capsules from 1999. It's like finding that the best restaurants are often the ones without Michelin stars and often have websites that are Y2K-proof.

High-quality product photography means little if the item falls apart after four washes or the food is oversalted or dry. What matters is the product itself. My perspective has shifted so dramatically that I now actively seek out businesses with decades-old websites and no Instagram presence—a rare find in today's digital landscape. If they're still operating, it's likely because their product is exceptional—and isn't that what we should be buying? These dated websites do us an accidental favor: they force us to step away from the endless scroll of "buy now" buttons and actually engage in the hunt. Whether that means diving deep into online research or stepping into physical stores, something is refreshing about this return to intentional shopping. It's a hidden privilege of their digital reluctance, one that gets us off our sofas and back into the real world.

After hours of intensive research, I found my ties through one of the brand's retailers. They arrived last week, perfect in every way. While I love their style, what makes them unique is the effort it took to find them. Of course, there are great brands with great websites, and the ease of buying from these stores is undeniable, but dear reader, don't be afraid to venture off the main path. Get off the internet superhighway and onto some internet backroads. Sure, the ride might be bumpy, the signage confusing, and you might get a little lost along the way—but that's where the real magic is.

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The journey to purchasing the perfect suit begins long before you enter a store. As I discussed in my recent video about how to feel confident when buying a suit, success comes down to preparing beforehand—the "Pre-Shop," as I like to call it. It's a series of questions that is not just a step but a crucial preparation that can help you transform a daunting process into an enjoyable experience. This aim is to make you feel prepared and confident when you enter the store.

Even for menswear enthusiasts, which I'd like to think most of us reading these words are, it can be intimidating to walk into a suit store and buy a suit. However, I want to reassure you that it doesn't have to be this way. There could be a sense of discomfort, but with the right approach, you can navigate the process easily and confidently. So, let's walk through how I approach purchasing a new suit to help you feel at ease.

First and foremost, it's essential to establish your budget and be honest with yourself about it. Everything else I talk about below here will ultimately stem from this number. It doesn't matter how much you spend because I fully stand by the fact that a $500 suit that fits perfectly will always outshine a poorly-fitted $2000 one, but this is step one when buying a suit.

Next, consider the occasion. Are you shopping for the few weddings you have to attend, do you want something to have for formal occasions, or are you one of the rare folks who has to wear a suit daily to the office? This is the guiding principle that will dictate the following few points, but something you need to think about. If you want something that can be worn for multiple occasions, you want something more versatile and neutral.

Color selection flows naturally from your intended use. For a first suit, navy and charcoal gray reign supreme - they're versatile enough for nearly any occasion. These classic colors make a smart choice for your first suit and ensure you're always well-dressed, no matter the event. If you're building a wardrobe, lighter grays and blues make excellent warm-weather options. If you want to expand beyond the first suit, the world of swatches is your oyster. There are more options than you could imagine, so having a good sense of a general fabric color direction is imperative.

Understanding fabric and construction is crucial for longevity. Where do you live? What season will you primarily be wearing it in? Assuaging what might be 'in-trend' for honest answers is essential to the suit-buying process.

Pay attention to the details that affect both style and function. Button stance influences your perceived proportions. Lapel width should complement your build—wider for broader chests, narrower for a contemporary look. Vents affect aesthetics and mobility —double vents offer the best movement, while no vents create the cleanest lines.

It certainly can be daunting to think about all of these things before you walk in, but I think it's quite important because the sales associate is going to ask you these questions anyway, so it would be wise to consider your answers and think about them in a low-pressure situation beforehand so that you can walk into the store confidently and knowing which direction you want to go. You'll be living with this suit for a long time, and it's a big purchase, so you want to approach that decision with care and knowledge, ensuring you're getting the most out of the transaction.

Doing this newsletter twice a week led me to make videos and start my YouTube channel. There, I've featured some of my favorite brands in the menswear industry. I've also started incorporating more style videos into the mix. Consider it a video form of this newsletter.

Recently, I've been fortunate to land my dream job as the Deputy Editor at Hodinkee. This exciting opportunity will require more of my time and energy, leaving less for other areas. As a result, I've decided to move this newsletter to a weekly schedule. I'm committed to maintaining the high quality—I hope—you've come to expect, and in order to remain to do that, I need to switch up my cadence. If you're into watches, be sure to check out Hodinkee, where I'll be contributing more.

I will share more soon, but for now, I want to express my heartfelt thanks for your continued readership and support. It means a lot to me.

In a world inundated with options, buying clothes often is most certainly overwhelming, with countless options vying for our attention. However, there's a compelling argument for simplicity in our wardrobe choices, especially with suits. I firmly believe that one well-fitted, high-quality suit can be the cornerstone of your style, providing versatility and elegance for various occasions.

First and foremost, investing in a single suit allows you to focus on having it tailored to perfection. A well-tailored suit ensures that you look your best and enhances your confidence. If a suit looks good on you, you'll be more confident—it's science.

Another critical benefit of having one high-quality suit is its inherent versatility. Choosing a suit in a timeless, neutral color such as navy or charcoal opens up many possibilities. This selection can easily transition from formal events like weddings and galas to business dinners. You never know when you'll get invited to a party requiring a blazer and/or a suit, and you want to be able to handle these requests in stride, not in panic.

From a financial perspective, investing in one high-quality suit is much more efficient than purchasing several cheaper alternatives. If you get a versatile navy, you can wear that trousers or jacket as separates, getting more cost-per-wear out of the endeavor. While cheaper suits may initially seem appealing, they certainly do not last as long or retain their appearance after numerous wear and trips to the dry cleaner. Trust me, the sticker shock on the initial purchase will abate over time every time you put your suit on because quality suits stand the test of time, making them more cost-effective choices in the long run. And the good suits will look better over time than break down. Don't be afraid of a little patina. With the more inexpensive and not as well made alternatives, this won’t be an option.

Finally, having a single, perfect suit simplifies decision-making. In a world where choices are abundant and decision fatigue is real, knowing you have the ideal suit for any occasion removes the stress of selecting what to wear. You save both mental energy and time, allowing you to focus on more important matters—like what your first drink for the night will be.

When I talk to people about suits, they almost always say one (or both) of these things — "I would wear a suit more, but, one, I don't have a suit that fits me, and two, I don't look good in a suit." You can take care of both of those issues if you can invest in one well-made, well-tailored suit. From tailored fits that enhance your confidence to the versatility and financial sense it brings, this foundational piece allows you to focus on style rather than excess. Now, I know that most reading these words probably have a suit that I'm referring to above, but hopefully, a reminder such as this is welcome as you look to your next purchase. And if you're getting into suits after a long hiatus, this could be a good place to start.

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I've always loved the details—getting in the weeds and making subtle design choices that most might not even notice. In fact, most probably won’t notice. We often focus on the big picture, but let's take a moment to explore the small details that can truly elevate a look. These are the elements I'm currently experimenting with.

Shirt Pocket

Whether you're buying a suit off the rack or getting a custom shirt made, the option to have a pocket on the front of the shirt has always been a moment of deliberation for me. Going sans-pocket is considered more formal—however, I could argue that even the notion of a dress shirt, in general, is formal these days, pocket or not—however, I always tend to opt for the pocket. I like having it there because, in the summer, it's nice to have an extra place for storage when I’m not wearing a jacket. I have a strict—no wallet or phone in the pants pocket unless absolutely and utterly necessary (that's a story for another day), and having a pocket here gives me that option.

Sleeves Buttons Undone

One of the staples of the Thom Browne Uniform is leaving your sleeve buttons undone, and I’ve translated that to non-Thom Browne outfits. I'm talking about the button by the wrist, and I wouldn't do this if your shirt doesn't have a small-sized button a couple of inches higher to leave the button to maintain the form of the sleeve. However, I sometimes opt out of the button on a dress shirt just to switch it up a bit. I firmly believe that all buttons are not meant to be buttoned.

Collar Roll Button

Speaking of buttons, if I wear a classic Oxford Cloth Button Down, I never button the two buttons at the base of the collar. To the same point as above, I wouldn't do this if unbuttoning them loses the shape of the collar. Of course, the shape will change slightly if the buttons aren't fastened, but that's fun. If you're lucky, you'll get a good collar roll—long-time readers here know my affinity for this.

Back of Tie

When the back of the tie is longer than the front, it can stir up some debate. I first saw this style from Sid Mashburn and Drake's, and it's been a playful addition to my wardrobe ever since. When an outfit looks too perfect, it can come off as a bit stuffy and try-hard. Tying the tie in a way that's not so perfect (ahem, four-in-hand) adds a touch of fun to the proceedings. Like the unbuttoned sleeves and collar, this detail is all about not taking yourself too seriously, and that's a refreshing approach to suiting.

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We all get there—the wardrobe becomes a little stale. You find yourself opting for the same jacket or shirt you've worn a hundred times. In some ways, this is good—you're breaking in your items and getting that cost-per-wear (a very roughly calculated internal metric that I personally use to help justify clothing purchases) price down. But at the end of the day, we all like to have something new and fresh and exciting to throw into the mix.

You love what you have in the closet, but it also feels a little stale. However, the budget might not be enough for a new suit or a pair of shoes. This is something that I've been thinking about recently, and I've tried to remedy that by picking up my accessory game.

Cheaper—and in most cases, incredibly cheaper—than going out and buying a new big item for your wardrobe is just adding a new accessory into the mix. It could be a pair of socks, a pocket square, a scarf, or even just a new tie. The beauty of accessories is that they can completely transform an outfit without breaking the bank. When looking to refresh your wardrobe, there are numerous options to consider that won't require a significant investment.

Pocket squares are a perfect example and I think a great place to start—a well-chosen one can add a pop of color and sophistication to any blazer or suit jacket. I have a white linen one with a slight edge of navy that I wear with all my jackets. They are usually quite affordable. I don't do any elaborate and fancy folds with them—I intentionally try to fold it a little haphazardly, but always in a square, with about one or two centimeters showing above the breast pocket. The navy stitch peeks out over the pocket for a subtle touch.

Similarly, socks are fun and easy. Now, while I wouldn't venture too far into the esoteric, a pop of color could be nice. I have a great, well-dressed friend who has started wearing red socks. At first, it was a surprise, but he pulled it off so well that I now associate him with this look. It's a fun touch to a navy suit. It's a fun touch to a navy suit.

Scarves aren't just for winter either; lightweight options can be a year-round accessory that adds texture and style to your ensemble. The issue here is that these types of scarves, however, can get quite pricey, so you will have to be strategic here. I have to admit, a silk scarf might be on the horizon for me in 2025. I'll keep you posted.

A tie is perhaps the most traditional way to switch up your look, making the same suit feel completely different with each variation. I have not bought a new tie in a very long time, and looking at which one to wear yesterday, I realized that I need some new variety in this department soon.

Finally, don't overlook belts—different textures, widths, and materials can also help switch things up.

We're only human, and it’s a great feeling to get a new piece of clothing you love and need for your wardrobe and wear it out for the first time. While I don't necessarily condone spending for the sake of spending, if your wardrobe feels a little stale, now might be a good time to throw in a new, fun accessory to the mix and see what happens.

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When I met Robbie Yarish, owner of Toronto-based brand Wynona, I knew we would get along. I had never been to Canada before a couple weeks ago—2025 is already bringing exciting new things—and I was eager to make the short flight from New York City over Lake Ontario to Toronto. Coincidentally, I had some business there, which allowed me to meet with Robbie in his native Toronto and visit his atelier downtown. Robbie runs Wynona, a suiting brand out of Toronto that believes that through meticulous craftsmanship and a curated approach that reflects the timeless elegance of those who have come before us, drawing inspiration from icons of the past—those whose style continues to transcend time and trends. I'm thrilled to share that Robbie and Wynona are my following video profile, which you can watch here.

Robbie's passion for clothes began at an early age, but it wasn't until the pandemic that he decided to launch his own brand. Wynona started as a well-curated vintage shop, reflecting Robbie's love for classic styles. However, as his vision expanded, the brand evolved into a full-fledged tailoring shop, a direction Robbie had always envisioned for Wynona.

What intrigued me most was Robbie's unique approach to his craft. While Toronto may not be known for its tailoring, Robbie has managed to carve out a niche. He uses mostly English and Italian cloth, and his commitment to quality is evident in his partnership with a third-generation family factor in Portugal for all production.

The brand has not only caught on in Toronto but has also gained international recognition. Shortly after its launch, international superstar Niall Horan and his stylist contacted Robbie. They asked him to make ten suits, as Niall exclusively wanted to wear Wynona for his worldwide tour. I’d say that would be an ideal way to kick-off the tailoring portion of the business.

In addition to their appointment-only atelier in Toronto, they've also started doing virtual consultations, where from afar, Robbie walks customers through the twenty-eight different measurements needed to make a custom suit. This process, which includes detailed discussions about fabric choices, design preferences, and fitting adjustments, ensures that each Wynona suit has the perfect fit. Robbie admitted his nervousness for the first couple of these projects, but they all turned out well. Robbie told me one gentleman did this for the tuxedo he wore for his wedding. The demand is so high that Wynona has its first trunk show in New York in March.

It's truly inspiring to see small brands like Wynona, led by passionate, thoughtful, and kind individuals like Robbie, carve out a niche in such a crowded market. Quality is key in an era where customers are inundated with more options than ever. Despite being a new company, Wynona is already making a name for itself, thanks to its unwavering commitment to quality.

I visited his beautiful atelier, right near where I was staying in downtown Toronto, and I could have stayed there for hours. The atelier reflected Robbie's style, simple and elegant, with carefully selected fabrics and designs adorning the space. We walked through the process, and I got a real sense of Robbie's style and design philosophy. It's always fun to have these conversations.

After I got what I needed for the video, Robbie offered me a glass of scotch, which I couldn't refuse. Robbie's approach to his customers is refreshing—he strives to get to know them on a deeper level and become friends with them. This genuine approach removes the stigma of the sometimes questionable salesperson/customer relationship and takes it to a more natural place. It focuses on building a long-term friendship rather than just trying to make a one-off sell. It's a testament to the value Wynona places on its customers and is a big part of why the brand is so successful in such a short amount of time. I can attest to this approach working well because we became great friends over this drink, talking about cars, watches, and suits. I have to say, though, that if I were to have another scotch, I'd also be walking through customs back into the US with a new Wynona suit over my shoulder.

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As I mentioned on Monday last October, I went to Huddersfield, England, to visit Marling and Evans, a 270-year-old mill and one of the last remaining in the region. My aim was to learn how cloth is made. If you haven't seen that video, you can click here.

Before this trip, I had incorrectly assumed that the mill was the final part of the cloth-making process. I had no idea there was another equally important part—the finisher.

My journey to Huddersfield led me to W.T. Johnson & Sons, one of England's last finishers. Established in 1910, this renowned textile finishing company has been a cornerstone of Huddersfield's textile industry for over a century, and it remains proud to be in operation today. I got a facility tour from Allen, who had run the finisher for several decades. What started as a small family-operated business has grown into one of Yorkshire's premier textile finishing facilities, a testament to this region's enduring legacy of textile craftsmanship.

The textile finisher's role is simple: take the raw cloth from the mill and treat it to prepare it to withstand the demands of everyday wear.

I'm sure you all have felt a very dense, scratchy wool jacket—that roughness directly results from the finisher. As it turns out, that same material could also be finished smoothly. It's all based on the desired outcome from the mill and the machinery in the finisher. Different jackets call for different finishing. In addition, as I learned, cloth can be treated with a different level of 'sheen.' Mark, who runs Marling and Evans, was telling me.

Just as New Yorkers credit their delicious pizza to the city's unique water, the locals in Huddersfield attribute their area's once-highest cloth production in the world to the same element. 'The water' here played a significant role, they say, in creating the perfect conditions for treating the fabric and finishing it in a beautiful and enduring way.

Operating from its facility in Huddersfield, W.T. Johnson developed a reputation for excellence in finishing delicate worsted fabrics. Its specialized techniques in decreasing and shrinking processes became particularly sought after by luxury cloth manufacturers. The company's expertise in finishing delicate fabrics, especially those destined for high-end tailoring, helped maintain Huddersfield's status as a global center for premium textile production.

Water was so essential to their process that in the 1930s, they wanted to drill underneath the finishers and build their own well to get water directly from the ground beneath them. They had to drill thousands of feet, but they found it.

Despite the overall decline of the British textile industry in the latter half of the 20th century, W.T. Johnson & Sons continued to thrive. As any good business does, when they start to make significant profits, they reinvest it into the company. They built the well to source their own water, upgraded to the latest machinery, and provided an assortment of finishes for their customers. I learned that these machines aren't cheap. This reinvestment is undoubtedly why they are still operating today, while many of their competitors have long since closed down.

The finishing process begins with scouring, a crucial preliminary treatment that removes natural impurities, oils, waxes, and dirt from the fabric. Textiles are treated with alkaline solutions during scouring, typically sodium hydroxide or sodium carbonate, combined with specialized detergents and surfactants. This process is carried out at elevated temperatures, usually between 50°C and 100°C, depending on the fiber type. The thorough cleaning achieved through scouring creates an optimal foundation for subsequent finishing processes.

After scouring, finishers employ chemical and mechanical processes to enhance the fabric's properties. Chemical finishing involves applying various treatments to impart specific characteristics such as water resistance, flame resistance, or softness. Mechanical finishing includes processes like calendering (pressing between rollers), raising (creating a soft surface), and stentering (maintaining width and straightness).

Mark from Marling and Evans says this process ensures that when you take your blazer to the dry cleaners, your jacket doesn't go from a 40 to a 36.

Like Marling and Evans, W.T. Johnsons is one of the last remaining finishers in the area, and it's retained its position because of the quality of work they produce. Watch my latest video, How Cloth is Made, to learn more about this process. It was an incredible honor to be able to visit both Marling and Evans and W.T. Johnson on the same day, to meet Mark and Allen who run the companies, two legends in their fields, and to be able to shed some light on this incredible process.

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The train arrived in Slaithwaite, a town about an hour outside of Manchester, England, around 4:30 in the afternoon, and I could barely contain my excitement. It was late October, and the sun was setting. I had been to England a few times, but my trips were confined to London. I had heard tales of what the countryside in northern England was like, but I was excited to see it for myself.

I was there to meet Mark Garrett, who runs one of the leading—and one of the only—remaining mills in England, Marling and Evans. He picked me up, and when I put my luggage in his trunk, I had to put it on a few rolls of beautiful fabric that he had in his trunk. I knew I was in the right place.

Marling and Evans was founded in 1782. Yes, 1782. Mark's been in charge of the company for a while now. Despite my love for suits and tailored clothing, I do not know how the fabric is made. I have heard of a loom, and I know there were rolls of fabric involved, but I had no idea how wool went from sheep to fabric rolls, and I set out to change that. I'm thrilled to report that this is the subject of my latest video—How Cloth is Made.

What I witnessed at Marling and Evans surpassed all my expectations. The sheer scale and precision of fabric production were awe-inspiring. It's a privilege to share this remarkable story with you, a tale I hope you will find as enjoyable as I did.

Slaithwaite is a town in Yorkshire, northern England, situated right outside Huddersfield. In its heyday, the 1800s and early 1900s, Huddersfield was the center of worldwide fabric production. Mark took me through the office, which was filled with fabric samples and beautiful artboards, and then onto the production floor.

Mark guided me through the mill floor, where the rhythmic sounds of the looms filled the air. The warping and wefting process, explained by Mark, was a fascinating sight. The walls were adorned with hundreds of rolls of fabric, each a testament to the 270-year history of this company. It was a journey back in time, a time when fabric production was the dominant industry.

After walking through the mill, I thought I was done, but I quickly learned this was half the process. The other half was at the finisher, which I had no clue what they did. When I went there, I was blown away. Some of the loveliest fabrics in the world are made by heavy machinery. I will talk more in detail about the visit on Thursday, but for now, I'd encourage you to watch the video.

This video is my tribute to these mills and the dedicated individuals who keep them running. The fabric production industry, once a thriving force in this region, is now facing a decline. Jobs are being outsourced, and the demand for tailored garments is diminishing. Despite being a relative newcomer to the industry, it was on this trip and this day that I realized that if I could shed some more light on these mills, the people behind them, and the products they produce through my newsletter or videos, then I should because once these mills are gone, they are never coming back.

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It's mid-January, the holidays have passed, and it's around time for us to settle into winter. For those of us in the colder temperatures, that means another few months of frostiness. Either by now or in the days to come, the novelty of breaking out your winter clothes has worn off, and we're yearning for a respite from the bracing cold, whether that be a one-off warm day or a long weekend in the Caribbean—just to remind yourself that you can feel warm again.

In these times, I typically like—or just simply try—to lean into these cold temperatures. Because of the nature of the season and the number of clothes required to remain warm, more clothes are needed, which got me thinking about a topic that could certainly be applied to all seasons, but for me, it's directly applicable to winter—the art of mixing patterns.

For the last couple of years, my most worn jacket during the winter is a sports coat from Sid Mashburn. It's a fantastic jacket with an excellent fit, but it has more of a stronger pattern than most of my other pieces of tailoring, which has made me get creative with the types of things I pair it with.

To this, I'm reminded of a great quote from Alan Flusser's seminal book, Dressing The Man; Alan says, "The first step towards pattern-mixing prowess is learning how to mate two-like patterned garments, such as a striped tie with a striped dress shirt, or a checked necktie with a plaid suit. When combining two patterns of the same design, the size of each should be as different from the other as possible. Otherwise, the similarity will produce an optical illusion of movement or vibration." Essentially, if I've got a loud pattern, such as the aforementioned sport coat, it needs to be subtle if I were to wear another pattern.

Mixing stripes is the most common illustration of this quandary. Whether your suit jacket has a Glen Plaid pattern, and you're pairing it with a shirt or a tie—let's not even consider both at the same time—just make sure that the two stripes in question aren't of similar size. I'm a big proponent of buying clothes that mix and match and go with everything; I don't have the interest—or the budget—to buy a specific tie for a certain shirt or suit, so generally speaking, most things go with everything. Sure, there will always be a percentage where this is not true, but if you keep this principle in mind when putting a new item into your wardrobe, you'll always be safe.

In terms of numbers, I generally keep the pattern mixing to two in any given outfit. Three is bordering risqué territory, and you must be an expert—and have a good reason—for wanting to hit this sartorial home run by swinging for the fences. But with two patterns, you should be on safe ground. It's a rule that's applicable even for the non-tailored garment side. Layering sweaters is another avenue I like to play around with during winter.

The most important thing, however, is to have fun with it. Try some things out, and don't be afraid to mess up—it is only clothes, after all.

There's something captivating about brands steeped in tradition. It's not necessary, of course—you can have a successful business that started in the last ten years—but some brands are (much) older than that and if that history is used correctly, it certainly helps add to the allure. New brands often try—and usually fail—to create this lore about the brand to make them seem older than they are. However, simply, the best backstories and traditions are, well, the true ones. Quaker Marine Supply Company, founded in 1948, is one of those brands steeped in tradition, and I had the pleasure of getting to know them well a few weeks ago for my latest video.

Founded in Philadelphia in 1949 by a Coast Guard veteran named Joe Kadison, Quaker Marine Supply has a long history of serving the sea-loving crowd. The company began as an outfitter specializing in marine hardware and clothing, always committed to providing the highest quality. In the 1960s, QMS became known for its long-brimmed caps, notably the Swordfish and Oysterman, with their patent-leather bill. It was worn by a who's who of people over the years. Ernest Hemingway, Jackie Kennedy, and David Hockney wore the hat, making it simply iconic. However, when the halcyon years ebbed in the late 90s and early 2000s, the brand searched for an identity.

In 2008, Kevin McLaughlin, co-founder of J. McLaughlin, revitalized Quaker Marine Supply, by purchasing the brand and preserving its rich American heritage. He had been a fan of the brand for many years, and when he saw an opportunity, he took it. Now, in 2025, he continues to reinvigorate the brand, ensuring that QMS's storied tradition resonates with a new generation. Today, QMS offers a diverse range of high-quality marine hardware, clothing, and accessories, showcasing its ability to evolve while remaining true to its roots. As he puts it, the brand builds on its historical traditions without being bound by them.

In the fall, I visited their beautiful store in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, and had the pleasure of speaking with Ethan Lauer, the brand's managing director. He works hand-in-hand with Kevin to steward this fantastic brand. One step inside the Greenpoint store, and it's evident they are onto something. Ethan walked me through the line, which I loved, and he said, "has something for everyone in it".

As you can imagine, the store was well-appointed. Retail is Kevin's specialty; he's opened hundreds of J. McLaughlin stores all across the country during his career. I love how the store is on Greenpoint Avenue, a street not necessarily known for retail, which was a conscious choice, and it works. They also have a Southold shop on the North Fork of Long Island. When I asked them about these locations, they both said different versions of the same thing—they didn't want to be based in some of the more common retail locations—they wanted one that felt authentic and true to the brand. The brand is something that Kevin and Ethan are always thinking about.

I also found his and Ethan and Kevin’s relationship incredible upon speaking with them. They are both product-focused, so it's no surprise that Quaker Marine Supply's garments are of the highest quality. Their unwavering commitment to excellence is evident in every product, ensuring that you're investing in not just a piece of clothing but a piece of the brand's rich history.

I then went over to speak with Kevin in his office. He's still involved in the J. McLaughlin business heavily while also working on Quaker Marine. The one thing that struck me about him is his curiosity. He walked me through some new product categories that QMS is considering, and despite them being somewhat new to him, it was clear he had researched them with incredible detail, his office featuring so many samples. During my interview, one of my favorite anecdotes he told me was J. McLaughlin, and he, specifically, was the first retailer to carry Barbour in the United States. It's a genuinely incredible fact that he nonchalantly tossed out. He is a clothing legend, and it was a pleasure to be able to sit down from him and gain some of his wisdom during our time together.

I enjoyed the walkthrough of their office in Greenpoint, which is two full floors in a warehouse just blocks down from the store. I have walked by it hundreds of times and had no idea that the J. McLaughlin and QMS offices were inside. I love being in offices and studios like this, surrounded by samples and clothes, mood boards, and designs hung on walls. I could spend hours walking around and talking with Kevin and Ethan about everything they had in there.

One thing that struck me about Kevin and this office was the number of antiques and collectibles he and his colleagues have accumulated over the years. Some are for inspiration, and some are to be refurbished. It seemed Kevin knew the backstory to nearly every piece. A corner of the office is a complete furniture workshop because they make all of the furniture and fabrications in-house, which is unique and a nice touch that I'm sure not many people know about.

If you've got a few minutes, I'd love for you to check out the video. If you're not familiar with the brand or are familiar with it from eras gone by, it might be time to get introduced—or reintroduced—as I think their stock will only go up and up in the weeks, months, and years to come.

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In December, I was planning on going out to Los Angeles to film Cody Wellema, a legendary hat maker who runs Wellema Hat Co., a custom hat maker out in Altadena. Unfortunately, the timing didn't work out, and I moved my trip to 2025.

Last night on Instagram, I saw the below image of their store on the Wellema Hat Co account and the subsequent caption.

This was never a business. This was our home.

It’s impossible to place words for this loss. My heart has never been so heavy. This space was a literal extension of myself, my home & my family.
I started in hats when I was 20 years old. I was laying down the wood floor with my best bud in my second shop here, on my 24th birthday.

For over a decade I’ve researched, sourced & collected tools and equipment, most 100 years old, to make the best hat I could with two hands.
I never made much money doing this, but we sure did have a rich life. I supported 6 people solely on what came out of this shop. I will always be proud of that. Having my kids grow up in a store with our name on it will forever be my definition of success.

Never a business, never a store. Simply a space that’s walls & hats reflected my families travels, music we listened to, art we consumed & people we met along the road. A dedication to a craft, a trade that has been dying in America.

Thank you to everyone who reach out to us today - please understand our lack of response. If I’m honest, I truly do not know what comes next.

Altadena, we love you. Our little mountain family, big hugs.
♥️

—

I’m devastated for him and his family.

There are many causes and resources to support those affected, and I encourage you to do so if you can. In the spirit of this newsletter, where we love and advocate artisans and people doing wonderful things in the clothing world, I wanted to highlight Wellema Hat Co. and the unspeakable tragedy that happened to Cody, his family, and his business.

One of their friends put together a GoFundMe, which I to donated this morning. I wanted to highlight it here in case any readers felt they also wanted to contribute.

Donate here

I've spent the last two weeks on the road for the holidays. First, I spent a week in North Carolina and the last week in Chicago. Countless other menswear newsletters cover packing in detail, so I won't go down that road. Instead, today, I wanted to talk about the piece of clothing I wore the most during these last two trips—my Junior's Scotland Shetland sweater.

It was cold in North Carolina when I was there, averaging in the 40s each day, but it's been freezing since I've been in Chicago. Really cold. As I write these words, the wind chill is 8 degrees, as it has been every morning for a week. The one thing I did forget to bring was a large winter coat, as I didn't want to lug it through a series of airports, and when I left, back on December 23, my ten-day weather forecast wasn’t able to predict that days 11-17 of my trip would feature sub-arctic temperatures.

What I did bring, however, is my Junior's Scottish Shetland sweater. I've worn it every day for two weeks, and in my humble opinion, it's the perfect choice for these frigid days. Its simplicity, incredible versatility, and style make it my go-to choice for these chilly days.

I bought this sweater long before I met Glenn Au and made my video in his shop in Philadelphia. Since then, my adoration for him and his product has only grown. When I pass through Philadelphia later this month, I'll most definitely stop by his shop and pick up another.

My favorite thing about sweaters is their versatility. You can honestly wear them with anything. I know I'm not a rocket scientist when I say that, but that's not always the case. We all have worn a sweater or two that feels a bit itchy when wearing a short-sleeve shirt underneath. I had been trained to accept this fate and was nervous about wearing just a T-shirt underneath in the morning for fear of extreme itchiness on my arms, but that's not the case here. The sweater, made of 100% wool in Scotland, is one of my favorite pieces of clothing. At $205, it's a reasonable investment for a piece that will last. It's not cheap, but it's not exorbitantly expensive either.

Often, I like to wear a collared shirt underneath it for a more formal look. It’s essential for me that when I do this, the sweater's collar fits snugly with the collar of the collared shirt, as this sweater does. I don't think it looks as good when there is a sag in the crew neck of the sweater. Of course, we all know it can be worn with a blazer, with or without a collared shirt underneath.

It may not be the flashiest item on the market, but if I've learned anything on this trip, it’s just how essential and valuable this sweater is to my wardrobe. The Junior's Shetland Sweater is my go-to.

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My girlfriend and I spent New Year's Eve in Chicago. We wanted to repeat last year's feat of going to dinner at our favorite restaurant, Gibsons’s, around 8 p.m., where we had a lovely time. This sounds nice in principle, but the only problem with this plan is that this restaurant is also many other people's favorite restaurant, and we didn’t have a reservation.

Gibson's is a Chicago institution. It's a perfect mix of a steakhouse and a cozy bar vibe. They have a piano in the corner, and it's the ideal place for any occasion. When we walked in a couple of nights ago, as we did when we walked in last year, the bar was bustling. Forty people were waiting in line for tables in the back portion of the restaurant, which was already over-subscribed with reservations, and the bar area (our favorite), which features about twenty seats and two dozen hightop tables, is first come, first serve, and three people deep. Our chances were slim.

Charlie and The Chocolate Factory played on the bar TV, and live music played on the piano in the corner. Martinis were flowing, and the room was buzzing and glimmering with sequins. It was electric—the kind of room you want to be in for New Year’s Eve.

Despite a similar level of busyness last year, we were able to get in after about half a beer of waiting, and I felt strangely optimistic for no good reason. I tried to order some drinks while my girlfriend inquired to see if there was a waitlist. We saw one table in the bar area, again usually resigned for walking and being held with a reserved sign. Despite the ten minutes she was gone, she could not even make it to the main entrance host stand because of the overwhelming lines. Things weren't looking good.

She then had the brilliant idea to talk to the servers at their station in the corner of the bar. Then, somehow, by fate, they told us that the reserved table, the best table in the bar area, was reserved for a couple who didn't show up and that we could have it. It was a miracle. When we sat down on the television in the corner, it was the part in the movie when Charlie found the golden ticket in his Wonka chocolate bar and ran through the crowd back home to tell his family that he had gotten it. I couldn't help but smile. Our golden ticket was a black and white checkered tablecloth, and our Wonka bar was the best martini in Chicago; it was perfect.

I think the photo above says everything. The piano player, Lloyd, who we talked to on his set break, was so nice and provided the ideal score for the evening. When he was on his set break, the gentleman on the left, seated in the foreground in the sequined jacket, also sat in. They both played a perfect mix of jazz standards and Billy Joel. The couple dressed up, with a full Manhattan, looked the part. They had the right idea.

We then proceeded to have a fantastic meal, comfortably nested in the corner of the room, with a perfect view of the evening's festivities. Now, this was the extreme example, and we got very, very lucky, but as I look back on the year and specifically getting dinner or drinks at busy spots, it sounds very simple and obvious, but I've learned two things this year. I've learned that sometimes, a little patience and a bit of courage is all it takes to get in. This was one of those times.

Two simple, obvious tactics have led us to get a table at some busy spots this year. One, actually talk to someone. It never hurts to ask. We would still be waiting to get in if we didn't ask. Secondly, once you do ask, wait. Every time I've done this in the past few months, I was given a quote time that was an estimation that was much, much longer than the actual wait time. Thirty minutes turned into five minutes, and an hour turned into fifteen. If it's somewhere where you want to go, don't be afraid to wait. The quote times are completely arbitrary by the staff, and I'm learning they are often overestimated in these busy situations to deter you from going. Don't be afraid to wait a little bit.

We adhered to these principles and were rewarded with the best table in the house. If you are ever in Chicago, go to Gibson's. Don't be afraid of a little wait. I’d also advise you to be prepared for a hangover the next day because once you get seated, the place is so perfect that you won't want to leave.

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As we approach the end of the year, I thought it would be fun to look back on the year that was here at our tiny little corner of the internet, Thoughts and Considerations. First, I want to thank each of you for reading this year. I started this back in March. I had no goals and no idea how it would go. All I tried to do was to publish twice a week, mostly about menswear but also about other pressing issues of our time—the proper amount of vermouth to put into a martini, the do’s & don'ts of back tie, etc.

I remember the day I got my first follower who wasn't a friend or family member. I was shocked and excited. Since that first post, I've been proud to have stuck to my goal of posting twice a week, every week. I'm pleased to say this is my 82nd post of the year. Many other Substacks and personalities do what I do, so I know you have a lot to choose from. Thank you for your time twice a week.

It was May when I wanted to start posting videos, which I found has really struck a chord. As a fan of the industry and the brands that make it up, I saw a void out there and tried to fill it. My first video was posted on F.E. Castleberry on May 27, and thus my YouTube channel was born. Since then, I've grown to nearly 1500 subscribers and almost 85k views, which has blown me away. So many great brands I've cold-emailed have taken a chance on me and allowed me to come into their space and interview them and tell their story, for which I will always be grateful.

This is just so much fun for me, and if I've brought just one person a smile, a piece of useful sartorial advice, or helped them discover a brand they didn't know about but fell in love with, I've done my job.

If you've enjoyed the newsletter, I'd appreciate it if you'd forward it to someone you think would like it. If you feel extra generous this Holiday season, please consider upgrading to a paid tier. That money goes back into the business and helps offset the costs I pay to travel and shoot these videos. We'll be kicking 2025 off with a great video, so stay tuned for that. 

Before we enter into the great unknown of 2025, I wanted to take back at 2024 with some of my top posts, both on Substack and on YouTube.

Top Posts of the Year on Substack

American Tailoring in Philadelphia—An inside look at Junior’s, a menswear brand based out of Philadelphia, started by Glenn Au.

London Street Style—On a beautiful fall day, I walked around Mayfair, London, and photographed some of the best-dressed people in town.

The Hotel Bar—An ode to the hotel bar, one of life’s great pleasures.

Top Videos of the Year on YouTube

Inside One of America’s Best Vintage Shops with Wooden Sleepers

American Tailoring in Philadelphia with Juniors

Inside One of England’s Last Luxury Factories with Private White V.C.

Rivay is New York’s Best Kept Secret

—

As we look forward to 2025, I have many exciting things planned. Just in January alone, I have videos coming out on one of the oldest mills in England, an interview with a menswear legend, and I went in-depth into one of the leading leather goods makers in NYC, and much more.

What do you want to see next year? What brands do you want to see covered, and who do you want to see interviewed? What types of articles do you want to see? Please message me on Substack or reply to this post on Substack and let me know!

Thank you, thank you, thank you for all your support this year! I hope you and yours have a Happy New Year. Cheers to a healthy and prosperous 2025!

Tim

I hope everyone is having a good Holiday Season. As we eagerly anticipate the New Year and things are quiet until 2025, I will keep things short. I thought I would pass along a few things I'm drinking, listening to, and watching during these days of guilt-free indulgence.

What I'm Watching

Conclave

Conclave may not be making headlines like some of the big-name releases of movie season, but it's a hidden gem. Ralph Fiennes' performance is nothing short of Oscar-worthy, and the story, cinematography, and music are all top-notch. I highly recommend it. It is one of the best films I've seen in a while.

Martin Short on Saturday Night Live

I grew up watching SNL and still watch religiously every week. While some of the episodes I haven't loved in recent years, the Christmas episode hosted by Martin Short is absolutely fantastic—so many great cameos. Every sketch was a delight, and the musical guest, Hozier, was wonderful.

What I'm Reading

James by Percival Everett

My girlfriend was ahead of the curve on this one and, after reading it this summer, recommended it to me. I've fallen short of my reading goal this year, but hey, there's always next year. However, this is the one book on my list that I want to finish before the new year. It's the telling of the Adventures of Huckleberry Finn from the perspective of Huck's friend, Jim. The New York Times recently said it was one of their top ten books of the year, and I can see why.

What I'm Listening To

The Complete History & Strategy of Visa by Acquired

Visa is one of the biggest companies in the world, but I had no idea how it was founded. Despite being the leading credit card company and not a bank, it has a bigger market cap than any bank and is one of the most valued companies in the world. This is an incredibly fascinating account of how one of the world's most used and well-respected companies started. It's long, well over three hours, but the Acquired team tells the story so well it flies by. Perfect for a long plane ride or drive this holiday season. Listen here.

What I'm Drinking

Old Raj Gin

There are two places in New York City that I've found that serve Old Raj Gin—Lilia (one of the best Italian spots in the city) and Maison Premiere (in my opinion, the best cocktail bar in the city). So if it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me. In fact, Vine Pair reviewed the top martinis in NYC, and Maison Premiere won it, and Old Raj is their gin of choice. It goes well with everything and continues to be one of my favorite spirits since I learned about it a few years ago.

Guinness

No words are needed.

—

I hope everyone is having a great Holiday Season,
Tim

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As we all should know by this point—or if you're new here, you'll realize soon enough—I enjoy tradition in all aspects of life. As we approach the holiday season, one tradition that I love is the cold. There's something about the crisp air, the cozy layers, and the anticipation of the first snowfall that I just can't get enough of. This feeling wanes around March, but we're not there yet, so I'm leaning into the season.

I must admit, as I was walking around Manhattan yesterday picking up last-minute gifts, dealing with a 15-degree Fahrenheit temperature and a bracing wind, I was slightly less enthused by this sentiment. Even so, I contend that if not for the extreme cold, the term "getting cozy" wouldn't exist. And I think we can all agree we like being cozy.

I respect the snowbirds who live in more temperate climates or at least spend the winter months in places that don't get below seventy degrees in late December, but I like the bracing winters. Snow is not necessary, but it is merely an added bonus. I love the seasons and winter, mainly because aside from being cozy, I get to wear one of my favorite pieces of clothing—the shawl cardigan.

I think the shawl cardigan is one perfect garment for this season, a cold time of year. Work, for the most part, slowly draws to a halt, especially during those days between Christmas and New Year. It's the perfect piece of clothing—and temperature—for not feeling guilty about sleeping an hour later, eating that extra cookie or two, and maybe closing the work laptop off and indulging just a bit. I'm nearly certain those front two patch pockets, which are standard on shawl cardigans, were made for stashing a cookie or two.

I love them for many reasons. First, the good ones are made of thick wool, keeping you toasty on the coldest winter days. What I love about it, aside from being a piece of clothing that keeps you warm, is its versatility. You could wear it to a holiday dinner with a tie if you need it for something more formal, or simply throw it over your pajama shirt for coffee the following day. It's like a warm hug that you can wear at all times of the day.

Mine is the warmest thing I own, and with that, it's bulky. Typically, I'm flying out of New York for the holiday season, and packing this thing is risky because it takes up a good portion of my suitcase. Every year, it's a toss-up whether or not I want to eschew a pair of pants and a shirt or two for this pièce de résistance. Spoiler alert—it’s always worth it.

I could wax poetic a bit longer on this, but I've got an early flight in the morning, and I've not packed, so I'll leave you with a couple of options on some that caught my eye this holiday season. If you expedite the shipping, they just might arrive in just enough time for you to indulge this holiday season. And if not, do not fret—it will arrive in plenty of time for you to figure out how you can get it in your carry-on for next year's holiday season.

It should be no surprise that Drake’s makes a great one in many colors. View here.

My friends over at Rivay, who I featured in my latest video, have this great brown one. They are low in stock, so order quickly! View here.

The contrast buttons and Aran knitting from RRL make this one an excellent option. View here.

Even though I’ve never been to Maine—it’s very high on my list to visit—I’ve heard it gets quite cold there, so naturally, L.L. Bean has a good option as well. View here.

It happened last week. I was pushing my sleeves up when I heard a rip. It was underneath my jacket, so I didn't immediately see the extent of the damage, and frankly, I forgot about it until the next day when I went to put my shirt on and saw the large tear in my forearm.

I've written about how a small tatter or fray here or there is a good thing, but unfortunately, there's no coming back from a six-inch gash in the sleeve. It was the end of an era, as I had just gotten the collar to be the perfect level of worn-in without looking bad. The collar roll on the shirt has been perfect for years, but with great sadness, I'll have to start the break-in process from scratch yet again.

I think that's the case for spending up, in some cases. If it's a cheaper garment, the clothing will, more often than not, just fall apart. But if it's well made, it will break in and yield a nice patina. That's what you want. You want it to be worn in. I don't think you need a lot of things, just a few things that you really love that are durable and can withstand the demands of heavy use (and industrial-grade washing machines).

I now face this dilemma: Should I simply replace the shirt, risking disappointment, by seeking a new one that matches its performance and fit, or do I branch out and try something new?

And, too, the question lingers: What fate befits this shirt? It has been my faithful companion for nearly a decade, worn almost daily. Is it not a form of sacrilege to discard it?

As I contemplate the rip in this moment, I realize this shirt can still have a purpose. Perhaps it can be resigned to just being a summer shirt, worn only with the sleeves worn all the way up. That sounds good. I'm going to go with that.

Let this be the case for writing things out and thinking about your thoughts. I sat down to write a memoriam for this shirt, and I'm leaving full of excitement that the shirt can live its second life to fit a specific void in my wardrobe. More to come on this developing story in the summer.

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We're right in the middle of the holiday season. It's an exciting time, filled with many events and an abundance of holiday cheer. The usual activities of seeing friends and going out are supplemented with holiday get-togethers and company holiday parties. With the packed social schedule, going out every night is tough, but thankfully, it's a sprint, not a marathon. By January 2, we can come out for air because there will be a lull in the action.

It's been that way over here at Thoughts and Considerations HQ, as, fortunately, I've been going out a lot and seeing friends. There is nowhere more festive than this time of year in New York City, and when you see those lights and shimmering windows, you forget about last night's hangover less and less.

To add something new to the mix this year, my girlfriend and I decided to throw our own holiday party. Since most folks have many plans during the holiday season, and we were having the party on a Friday night, we thought most people would be busy and decline our invitation. We were very wrong, and we maxed out our tiny one-bedroom apartment last Friday night. After a very late night, everyone had a good time, and I’ve only recovered in just enough time to write this newsletter and get it out on time.

As long-time readers know, we're big fans of pre-batching cocktails for our parties (read more about it in an earlier issue of the newsletter). This year, we decided to go out with two seasonal cocktails—a rosemary-infused gin gimlet and a cinnamon whiskey sour. The preparation was a joy, especially using our industrial-grade juicer to juice nearly eighty lemons and limes. It was a personal record for me and a delightful experience. A good thing to keep in mind if you're throwing parties.

Also, last week, I had plans to meet up with Rhys from St Johns (if you’re unfamiliar with him and the brand, watch my video about them). We decided to meet at the Grand Central Oyster Bar, which has become a new favorite of mine this year. Our plans were soon changed, as their main bar was closed for a holiday party. So we tried to go to the bar in One Vanderbilt across the street, which was completely booked and unavailable for walk-ins. Our Plan C was also quickly thwarted because The Campbell Bar was having a private party, as was our final option of the Grand Brasserie in Grand Central. Four tries, four misses.

We then were resigned to go to the Saloon, back in the Grand Central Oyster Bar, which is an excellent option in typical situations. Still, because every other bar in and around Grand Central was having a company holiday party, this was the only bar open, and it was packed. Nonetheless, we had a lovely time catching up, and it was a good reminder that if you dare go out without a reservation in NYC this time of year, you might want to have five options up your sleeve; who knows, you might need them.

It should come as no surprise that reservations are nearly impossible during this time of year. Unless you have an in with the maitre d’—now might be a good time to start currying favor with them so you can get that impossible reservation for next year’s holiday season—you must set up a Resy notification for all the hotspots in town and have one eye on your phone at all times to wait for the chime from Resy saying a reservation has become available. Using this foolproof method, we obtained a prime reservation at Raoul's last week, which was perfectly busy yet cozy on a cold winter's night. We got the steak au poivre, of course, and then also the Dover sole. Washing it down with a dessert of profiteroles. After that meal and those cocktails, I thought I was in Paris! C'est parfait!

While my girlfriend and I agreed we didn't want a late night, we also agreed that after such a fantastic meal, we had to have a nightcap, so we decided to try to see if we could get a couple of bar seats at Balthazar. After about a fifteen-minute wait, we were seated at the corner of the bar in what has to be one of the most marvelous rooms in the city. We supplemented our first round of cocktails with a couple of Kronenbourgs—when someone has it on draft, it's a disservice not to get it—and we left full of booze and holiday cheer.

Ultimately, it's such a fun time of year and a good excuse to see friends, take some business colleagues out, possibly have one too many Guinnesses, and reflect on the year that was. The long, cold winter months of January and February are just around the corner, so by all means, lean into the holiday season!

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On a beautiful fall day a few weeks ago, I was on the Metro North, heading toward Bedford, New York. I was looking forward to the trip, as I had heard nothing but great things about this small town. I was headed up to meet and shoot a video with Jon Ruti and Katie Boiano, the husband/wife duo behind the menswear brand Rivay. Jon picked me up from the train station in his beautiful vintage Mercedes, which is on-brand for Rivay, which prides itself on elevated and refined classics. I was headed to their shop on Old Post Road in downtown Bedford, which was as charming as it sounds.

Rivay is a menswear brand founded in 2015 by former New York City prosecutor Jon Ruti. It is known for its modern interpretations of classic military and workwear styles. Jon shifted from the courtroom to the fashion industry to pursue his long-held dream of creating something of his own. He started the brand on his kitchen table and sold the first Rivay pieces out of the back of his car outside his Tribeca apartment. It was there where Jon met the first Rivay customers, many of whom still shop with the brand today, and got immediate feedback on what pieces resonated with people.

Shortly after launching Rivay, Jon met Katie Boiano, who shared his vision and joined Jon in working on the brand. After a couple of years of consulting on the side, Katie eventually started working full-time on the brand, taking Rivay to new heights. With extensive experience in the fashion industry, having worked with top brands and prominent figures like Todd Snyder, Jenna Lyons, and Mickey Drexler, Katie's expertise has been essential in defining Rivay's identity and design. I enjoyed speaking with Katie about her process, and she outlined the incredible amount of detail that goes into producing each garment.

They pride themselves on quality, and one glance and touch of a Rivay garment is all it takes to recognize the heavy emphasis on the product. Swatch books from some of the best fabric mills in the world adorn their studio, a testament to their commitment to quality. What's truly special about Rivay is their unique approach to workwear. They use materials typically reserved for traditional tailored garments on workwear. This results in an exceptional product that I believe will only get better with age.

The space is masterfully curated with Rivay's products and an incredibly well-selected array of vintage and antique pieces Jon and Katie have sourced during their travels. The vintage Leica ashtray (seen below) was a true gem and immediately caught my eye.

Jon heads the creative direction and marketing for Rivay, which is the perfect complement to Katie, who runs the design side of the business. Their workshop and studio, nestled in the basement of their home in nearby South Salem, are testaments to their personal touch in every step of the production process. From mood boards to designs, samples, products, and the photo studio they have set up in the corner, every aspect is infused with their passion and dedication. Their shipping station sits on that same kitchen table Jon used to start the brand nearly a decade ago.

Since the beginning, Jon and Katie had dreamed of opening a store, and when they found this charming storefront in downtown Bedford, they knew it was for them. The store has been another avenue and instrumental in growing their business, allowing folks to come in and try on products and get to know Jon and Katie themselves. I saw it firsthand, as I could have spent all day there just talking to them and having Jon walk me through all the vintage pieces and antiques they’ve got in the shop.

I’m thrilled to feature Rivay in my latest video, which you can view below. Whether you're new to the brand or have been a fan since you bought something from Jon in the early days, I think you’ll find their story inspiring and compelling. If you’re looking for a gift this holiday season for a loved one—or yourself—a product from Rivay would be an excellent choice.

They’ve got some big collaborations planned for 2025, so make sure to give them a follow, and if you find yourself near Bedford, make sure to stop in their store and tell them I sent you! I think you’ll be glad you did.

Watch video!